In 1953, John Steinbeck wrote in 'Harper's Bazaar', that the Amalfi Coast road was '...carefully designed to be a little narrower than two cars side by side'. It's unchanged today and although it's just an hour's trip, thanks to its narrow twists and turns this coastal route is one of the most challenging in the world to drive.
ESSENTIAL INFO
Suggested route
Our destination, Positano, is one of the world's most splendid locations to eat (it can be reached only by boat). So, in honour of things gastronomic, this journey begins in Vietri sul Mare, birthplace of the famous Italian chef, Antonio Carluccio. The Strada Statale Amalfitana, or to give it its more prosaic name, the SS163, will take you all the way along the winding coast with breathtaking vistas at literally every turn. Vietri sul Mare is well known for its ceramics and you can pick up some great bargains at the Solimene factory on the Via Case Sparse.
Leaving Vietri sul Mare, the first little fishing village you'll pass through is Cetara, with its 17th century domed church painted by Marc Benincasa. This village is famed for its anchovies so stop and get a few tins to take home. From Cetara the road briefly lurches up into the mountains before passing through Erchie then looping back down again towards Maiori which is where you'll find the longest stretch of beach on the whole coast. A recent privatisation by the mayor means that you will need to pay a small fee to use the beach, but this means that it's clean with plenty of loungers. Opposite the beach is the Corsa Reginna where you'll find plenty of shops and the occasional market.
Just minutes down the coast is the smaller town of Minori, whose inhabitants are celebrated for their traditional paper-making skills. The road cuts straight through its narrow plant-pot lined streets with tiny hotels and restaurants clustered either side. Then the road zig-zags up again giving you a wonderful view of the cliffs and the sea.
This is around the halfway mark and you could take a 20-minute round-trip diversion here to Ravello, which offers the very best view of the whole coastline. From the SS163, take a slight right turn on to the SS373, the Via Castiglione, and then follow it the signs for Ravello, which should take around ten minutes. Once you've parked it's worth the walk and the few Euros entry fee to the 'Terrace of Infinity' at the Villa Cimbrone and also trying the homemade gelato at the Cumpa Cosimo, where 'Mama' reigns over the restaurant.
Follow the road back down again until you re-join the SS163 and go straight through to Amalfi, where it is believed that St Andrew is buried. The Duomo di Amalfi is in the heart of the town - it dates back to 1000AD and has an amazing Baroque interior.
Back on the road again, just under 6.2 miles (10km) away is Praiano, look out for the signs for the Grotto dello Smeraldo, one of the natural marvels of the area. You're now just 4.3 miles (7km) away from the best meal in the world! The road sharply curves up into the hills before swooping down into Positano. Park up by the Marina Grande any time between 10am-1pm and look for the boat with a red fish on it!
GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR TRIP
Worth getting out of the car for
- The Villa Cimbrone in Ravello was built for an English gentleman, and in its time entertained everyone from Winston Churchill and Humphrey Bogart to Greta Garbo and Jacqueline Kennedy. It's around 15 minutes' walk away from the main square and has one of the most stunning views in Europe. Take your camera!
- Lunch at Da Adolfo, Positano. Take the free boat from the Marina Grande for the five-minute trip to the restaurant on the beach. For eight Euros you can have an umbrella and lounger along with access to showers and a changing room. But the big draw is the food: simple local specialities like grilled mozzarella on lemon leaves and zingingly fresh fish. Perfect.
- Praiano's Emerald Grotto is one of the most famous caves in Italy for the mysterious blue-green lights that reflect from the stalagmites and stalactites onto the water. Amazingly, it was only discovered in 1932!
Events
- August 15 - The whole town of Positano gathers in the evening for its annual Sbarco del Saraceni, a re-enactment of an ancient pirate attack in full costume!
- June 26-September 27 - Ravello celebrates its annual summer festival with over 100 events of art, literature, music and dance.
- August 31-September 1- Amalfi celebrates the Byzantine New Year with processions, fireworks and parties.
Useful links
Have you done this trip? Got advice on the route? Know some unmissable stop-offs? Help others by adding ideas and comments below.
Corect in all major respects EXCEPT -this is a nightmare road to drive and you wont get above 30 mph at any point; as you emerge from blind bend after blind bend you will be faced with tour buses who just sit there blocking the road and waiting for you to reverse, but behind you are irate Italians sounding their horn with abandon.. Driving the Amalfi Coast is joyless and stressful - avoid at all cost, but a walking holiday there FANTASTIC.
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Totally agree with rouse_simon. My husband and I have driven all over the world, by car and motorcycle, so are experienced and confident in driving abroad, but driving here freaked both of us. Erratic driving by the locals, precipitous unprotected drops to the sea, it worried us so much that we parked up and stayed in Sorrento.
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Steinbeck was right and still is. Do the complete journey as the scenic way from Naples round to Salerno with a couple of nights to kill. Check in at small wayside hotels between major tourist stops and have a wonderful time. Just don`t think about what`s going to happen to your wing mirrors. Anyway, this is southern Italy, you won`t need them.
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